FamilyFood

Polenta and sausage

More of a story than a recipe...

Polenta with sausage is a dish that I grew up eating...and hated.  I don't know why, really.  Perhaps it was the oatmeal-y texture, a texture I don't really love. But then, as I got older, something changed. I now love polenta, and it's because it was served so often in my childhood that I associate it with comfort food. I love it's creamy earthiness especially when it is enhanced with good-quality butter and salty-sharp parmigiano reggiano.

As we head into fall, I decided to make polenta for dinner this week. Here in San Francisco, it's actually been cold and foggy enough in the evenings to enjoy it. My mom always served it with sweet Italian fennel sausages cooked in a tomato sauce. The polenta would go onto the plate with sausages alongside and sauce and cheese on the top.

When you make polenta you can use imported Italian polenta—either the quick-cooking kind (if you don't want to be chained to the stove for 30 minutes) or the regular kind—or you can simply use yellow corn grits. Prepare according to package directions but be sure to add a couple of pats of unsalted butter and a good handful or two of grated parmigiano reggiano to it at the end of cooking.

At the same time, you can fry up the sausages and when they are almost cooked add in 2 cups of tomato sauce (a simple marinara). I make my own but if you have to use store-bought I like Pomì brand Marinara (it comes in a box). Simmer sausages in sauce for about 10-15 minutes to allow flavors to develop.

Spoon polenta onto a plate or into a bowl and spoon a little tomato sauce over it. Top with cheese and fresh ground pepper.  Serve sausages alongside. Dig in.

I now serve my children polenta and sausage.  My four-year-old eats the polenta and my two-year-old eats the sausage.  It works out.

[photo credit: Stefania Pomponi Butler, bowl from Deruta, Italy]

ICY-COLD TOMATO SOUP

This just might be the soup I make once a week for the rest of the summer.  Omigoodness, it's delicious.  I adapted it from a recipe in the latest edition of Everyday Food.  I tried it their way, but I think my improvements make it mo' bettah.

ICY-COLD TOMATO SOUP

• 3 pounds of perfectly ripe tomatoes (any kind), chopped (no need to seed or peel unless you want to)
• 1 cup of chilled tomato juice (I like Clamato for a zesty kick)
• 1/2 cup chilled free-range chicken broth (or an additional 1/2 cup of tomato juice if you prefer)
• 3 tbsps lime juice
• 3 tbsps extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
• 1 garlic clove, chopped
• 1 tsp of sugar or honey
• lots of sea salt and freshly ground pepper (it needs it).

Working in 2-3 batches, puree the above ingredients in your food processor or blender.  It will be slightly chunky.  Chill in fridge for at least one hour before serving. Top with lime-yogurt and chopped avocado.

Topping:

• 1/2 cup 2% Fage (or other lowfat Greek-style) yogurt
• 1 tbsp lime juice

Whisk the yogurt and the lime juice together in a small bowl.  Season to taste with a little salt.  Cover and chill.

[photo credit: Everyday Food]

WHITE LINES OF A DIFFERENT KIND

Super-sweet white corn is just starting to come into season where we live (San Francisco) and has been included in our weekly produce delivery box* for the last coupla weeks.  We all love corn, especially Bunny and Wallie, and sometimes during the summer, corn (grilled, rolled in crumbled cotija cheese and doused with lime juice and Cholula) is dinner.

Yesterday I whipped up this quick salad for our lunch.  I scooped a big pile onto each of the girls' plates, and they gobbled it up and asked for more.

WHITE CORN, CHERRY TOMATO, AND AVOCADO SALAD

This salad is so easy to make and so pretty when it is assembled.  It would be perfect for a potluck or a picnic.

2 ears of white corn (raw), shucked and kernels removed (save cobs and make broth for corn chowder!)
1 pint of cherry tomatoes, halved
1 large-ish avocado, cubed
fresh marjoram leaves (for flavor and garnish, optional)

Dressing:
3 tbsps unfiltered extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
juice of half a lime
salt and pepper to taste

Combine corn, tomatoes, and avocado in a bowl.  Toss with dressing.  Place in fridge for 20 minutes to chill and allow flavors to develop.  Serve.

*Over the past 6 or so years, I've tried every organic/produce/CSA delivery box known to man. Or at least known to "man in the SF Bay Area."  I really like Planet Organics for three reasons: 1) I can customize my box each week choosing to add and delete specific veggies and fruits 2) the quality is consistently excellent and if it isn't they make it right 3) they deliver a full-range groceries including dairy items and canned goods, cleaning products, and organic meat/poultry/seafood.

HOT SUMMER, COLD SOUP

Several readers have written to request more recipes for summer. Here you go!

One person in particular wanted "more cold soup!" ...a person after my own heart. Oh, I so love chilled soups in the summertime: from gazpacho to vichysoisse, cold soups are always in heavy rotation in our house during the warm months. 

Cold soups are so much less time consuming to prepare than hot soup.  They're just as flavorful, too.

If you are tired of eating salads for dinner, try one of these delightful soups.  Both recipes are from my husband's grandmother, and I've adapted her recipies to update them slightly.

Cold Buttermilk and Shrimp Soup

If you like the tanginess of plain yogurt, then you probably will also like this zingy buttermilk-based soup. The sugar tempers some of the tang without making it sweet.

• 1 quart organic buttermilk (low fat works fine)
• 1 tsp. Coleman's dry mustard (do not substitute prepared mustard)
• 1/2-1 tsp. of sugar (to taste)
• 1/2 pound cooked shrimp, cooled, shelled, deveined, and chopped (reserve 2-3 whole shrimp, halved lengthwise, for garnish)*
• 4 Persian or 1 English cucumber, peeled, seeded and grated (plus some slices for garnish)
• 1 tbsp finely minced, fresh chives (reserve some for garnish)
• salt and pepper to taste

In a large bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, dry mustard, sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Add the chopped shrimp, grated cucumber, and minced chives.

Chill the soup, covered, for three hours or until very cold. Ladle into chilled bowls and garnish each serving with a shrimp half, a slice of cucumber and a sprinkling of chives. Makes about 5-6 cups serving 4-6 as a starter, 2-3 as a main course.

*vegetarian option: substitute 2 cups of peeled, diced boiled white potatoes for the shrimp (I love this version equally much.)

EVERY-KIND-OF-VEGETABLE SOUP

Inspired by the fabulous Vegan Lunchbox, and because I've done a bunch of meatful recipes in a row, I decided to post a recipe for veggie soup.

When J. and I first met, I was a pretty strict (ovo-lacto) vegetarian. Then one day I decided  that I wanted to eat a hamburger and that was that. Lately I've been thinking about returning to the vegetarian fold. Maybe not as strictly as before (bacon), but perhaps striving for 90%. We'll see.

This recipe is inspired by one of my favorite soups, Gypsy Soup, from the Moosewood Cookbook (the photo is of Gypsy Soup). I give non-vegan options at the end.

EVERY-KIND-OF VEGETABLE SOUP WITH TOASTED ALMONDS AND "CHEDDAR"

Because this soup is vegetarian and flavored only by the vegetables, herbs, and spices, I think it is much better on the second day. Try to make it a day ahead of serving if you can.

4 glugs of extra-virgin olive oil
1 large chopped onion
4-6 cloves of garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
2 tsp. smoky Hungarian paprika
1 tsp. turmeric
1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
A dash of cinnamon
A dash of nutmeg
A dash of cayenne

Veggies (any or all, I used all):
1 butternut squash, cubed
1 large yam cubed
4 medium zucchini, sliced
1 large carrot, sliced
2 handfuls of fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into one inch pieces
1 15 oz can of whole tomatoes and their juice

Set aside for later:
2 medium bell peppers (choose 2 different colors), diced
1 can of garbanzos or cannelini beans, rinsed
1 bag of pre-washed baby spinach
2 tbsps of brown sugar (optional)
2 tbsps of apple cider vinegar (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a large soup pot. Add onion, garlic, herbs and spices, and salt to taste and sauté over medium heat for about 5-10 minutes, until onions are transluscent. Stir often.

Add veggies and enough cold water (depends on amount of vegetables) to cover them by 2 inches. Raise heat and bring soup to a simmer (not a full boil).  Skim any foamy impurities that appear.  Reduce heat to a bare simmer, and allow soup to develop flavors, at least an hour. (Keep tasting, you don't want it to be watery. If you cook it long enough, it won't be.)

About 10 minutes before serving, add in bell peppers, garbanzos and spinach (and sugar and vinegar if using—this gives the soup a nice, sweet tangyness). Cover and simmer for about 10 more minutes. Adjust salt and pepper, and serve topped with toasted, sliced almonds, and a sprinkling of cheddar Veggie Shreds.

Variations for non-vegetarians:

• Use chicken stock instead of water
• Add in a package of sliced pre-cooked chicken-apple sausage (Emeril's, Aidell's etc.) during last 10 minutes of cooking.
• Top with grated parmesan or cheddar cheese.
• Top with a large crouton (toasted, sliced baguette) shmeared with really good chevre

PASTA THAT REMINDS ME OF MY CHILDHOOD

My favorite "warms-the-heart," comforting pasta dish is the one I grew up eating: spaghetti con burro e pomodori. My mom was a working mom so it was a dish she could throw together quickly. The beauty of this sauce, like so many good pasta sauces, is that in the time it takes to boil the pasta water and cook the pasta, it's done. The recipe is simple, but the key is to use the best ingredients you can get your hands on. Don't skimp on quality. Buon appetito!

Spaghetti con burro e pomodori (Spaghetti with butter and tomato sauce)

Put pasta water on to boil. Salt it generously. When water boils, add in 1 package of (thick) spaghetti. Cook about 1 minute less than package indicates for al dente pasta.

In the mean time, melt 1/2 cup of unsalted, best-quality butter in a saute pan ove medium heat.  When butter starts to foam, add 2 cloves of minced garlic.  Heat until butter smells garlicky and is completely melted then dump in a large can of imported San Marzano whole, peeled tomatoes. Smash tomatoes up with a wooden spoon.

Continue simmering until sauce is reduced by about a third, 20 minutes or so. Salt and pepper to taste. Toss with hot, cooked pasta. Pass the grated parmesan or pecorino romano cheese. (My family is Roman, so we prefer pecorino romano.) Serves 4 as a main dish or 6 as a starter.

[photo: Stefania Pomponi Butler]

also posted on slashfood

CHICKEN ENCHILADA CASSEROLE: PERFECT FALL DINNER

Everyone has one dish that they know will be a hit at parties and pot-lucks and tailgates. My “go-to” favorite is my version of Chicken Enchilada Casserole. Casseroles get a bad rap for being old-fashioned or a weird, gloppy mess consisting of different kinds of canned goods and processed foods. This casserole is different. It is simple and unfussy, yet still stands up to being served at any dinner party. You can take it to new parents or friends that have just moved or to a PTA luncheon and it will be a hit. Most kids love it (my one-year-old shovels it in), so it is perfect for any party where you have to feed children as well as adults. You can double the recipe and serve one casserole for dinner and freeze one casserole for another time. (This is what I do.) The accompaniments of Chile Cheese Rice and Roasted Corn and Black Bean Relish can also be prepared in advance.

This Chicken Enchilada Casserole along with the side dishes would be the perfect thing to serve on Halloween before or after a night of trick-or-treating. I hope you try it and enjoy it!

CHICKEN ENCHILADA CASSEROLE

Baked, firm tofu can be substituted for the chicken.

4 cooked boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1/2 inch chunks
1 can undiluted cream of mushroom soup
1 jar green salsa (Embasa, Old El Paso etc.)
1 small can diced green chilies
1/2 cup yellow or green onion, chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, leaves only
1-2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsps ground cumin
1 package large corn torillas cut into 1 inch strips
4 cups shredded cheese (cheddar, jack or pepper jack, asadero, cotija, mozarella or a combination)
1 small can sliced black olives
Lime wedges and sour cream for serving

In large bowl combine chicken, soup, salsa, chilies, onion, cilantro, garlic, and cumin. Mix well.

In a lightly oiled 9 x 13 pan, layer ingredients as for lasagna in this order:

tortilla strips, chicken mixture, cheddar cheese
THEN
tortilla strips, chicken mixture, olives
THEN
tortilla strips, jack cheese

Bake covered with foil at 350 deg. for 45 min. Remove foil and bake 10-15 minutes more. Let stand 10-15 minutes before cutting. Serve with lime wedges and sour cream.

The following side dishes round out the meal:

LIZZIE'S CHILE CHEESE RICE

1 1/2 cups long-grain white rice
16 oz sour cream
4-8 oz. diced green chilis
1/2 pound sliced or grated monterey jack cheese
1/4 pound grated cheddar cheese

Optional: 1/2 cup (green) salsa verde, handful each of chopped fresh cilantro and green onions

Cook 1 1/2 cups white rice per package directions to equal about 3 cups cooked. Preheat oven to 350º.

In a bowl, mix 16 oz. sour cream and 4-8 oz. diced green chilis (depends on how much flavor you want). In a round covered casserole dish layer rice, sour cream mix, and monterey jack cheese and continue layering until casserole dish is full. End with rice layer on top. Cook (covered) for 20-25 minutes. Sprinkle cheddar cheese on top and bake another 5 minutes. Serve hot. Note: I never have time to layer this so i just mix everything together adding the optional ingredients above for more “punch.” It always comes out great.

ROASTED CORN AND BLACK BEAN RELISH

1 clove garlic
1/2 yellow onion chopped
olive oil
1 package Trader Joe’s roasted corn (or a 10 oz package of regular frozen corn)
1 can of black beans, rinsed and drained
salt and pepper
handful of cilantro leaves to garnish

In a saute or frying pan, saute garlic and onion in a drizzle (about a tablespoon) of olive oil until onions are transluscent. Stir often. Add corn and a tablespoon of water and cook until corn is heated through. Add beans and cook until beans are heated through. Taste for salt and pepper. Transfer to serving bowl, garnish with cilantro leaves and serve.

(excerpted from a parenting site for which I write)

COLD SOUP, HOT DAY

I have previously blogged about my love for soup. I have a soup thing and make it about once a week.  In the summer I love to make cold soups (gazpacho, cucumber) and sip them when the weather is hot. This recipe is my take on vichyssoise, the humble French potato-leek soup that is served cold.

Today I whipped this together while the girls were eating their breakfast.  I share this only to let you know that it doesn't take a lot of time.  While both children are occupied, that's my time to cook so I make the most of it!

FENNEL, LEEK AND POTATO SOUP

Your chopping technique doesn't matter here—you are going to puree this soup. And don't be put off by the pungent, black-licorice-smell of the raw fennel.  When it's cooked, it mellows and adds a nice sweetness to the soup.

1/2 stick unsalted butter
2 glugs olive oil
2 leeks, white and light green stem only, cleaned and chopped (reserve dark green leaves for stock)
2 fennel bulbs, white bulbs only, outer layer removed, chopped
2 cloves garlic
4 medium waxy potatoes, scrubbed (peeling optional, I don't)
1 box free-range chicken broth (+ more to thin soup if desired)
half and half, at least a quart
salt and pepper
creme fraiche and chives for garnish

In a heavy-bottom soup pot, melt butter and oil over medium-high heat.  When butter is foamy add the leeks, fennel, and garlic plus a pinch of salt.  Let the veggies sweat until they are softened, about 10 minutes. Stir occassionally and if butter starts to brown, reduce heat a touch.  Meanwhile, chop potatoes into 1-inch cubes. Add potatoes to the pot along with the box of chicken broth. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat, cover and let simmer until potatoes are cooked though, about 20 minutes or so.  Remove from heat. Stir in a pint of half-and-half and then puree the soup completely with a stick blender.  (Important: If you use a regular blender let soup cool completely first.) If the soup starts to go all gluey as you puree it, keep adding splashes of half-and-half (or milk or water or broth or a combination) until soup returns to a velvety consistency. Taste for salt and pepper. Refrigerate. (You may have to thin again, see comments.) Serve very cold in chilled bowls with a dollop of creme fraiche or sour cream (if you like) and chopped chives.

CORN NUTS

Yes we are.  We love us some corn in our house. Our favorite way to eat it is Mexican-style.  We barbecue whole ears of corn in their husks (no need to soak first as some recipes recommend) and then, once roasted, we shuck the corn, spread it with mayo, roll in crumbled cotija cheese, and then devour with a squeeze of lime and lots of Valentina (or Cholula, in a pinch) hot sauce.  It is so messy, so good, and just this is often our dinner in the summer time.  (And look at that, a recipe!)

At the farmer's market yesterday I picked up some corn and thought to do Mexican corn for dinner tonight, but I changed my mind after spending all day at the water park.  Even though it is close to 100º in our backyard right now, I decided to make a hearty corn chowder because splashing in the sun makes a person hungry.  Almost everything in my chowder came from the farmer's market and I prepped it and got it simmering in under 30 minutes.  We will have this for dinner along with a crisp, cold, butter lettuce salad.

CORN CHOWDER CITYMAMA-STYLE

Whenever you add something to the pot, remember to add a little salt, too.

half a package of bacon, diced (I like Beeler's preservative-/nitrite-free bacon)
a splash of olive oil
one large Walla Walla onion, diced
2 stalks of celery and the leaves, chopped
a bell pepper or as many baby peppers as you can carry in two hands (~10), chopped (this is optional)
4 medium ears of corn
as many new Yukon Gold potatoes as you can carry in two hands (I carried exactly 10)
water
milk or half-and-half (whatever you prefer)
salt and pepper to taste

In a heavy soup/stock pot, cook bacon over medium heat until cooked though but not brown.  Then add the onion, celery, and peppers and let them cook down. In the meantime, carefully scrape the kernels from the corn using a sharp knife.  If the kernels are particularly milky that is a good thing.  Save it.  Using a flexible chopping mat helps to get all the kernels and any liquid into the pot, otherwise I always chop on wood.  Better for the ol' knives. 

Once the kernels are in the pot, let them cook for a few minutes while you chop the potatoes.

Now add some water to the soup pot until it reaches about half way up the sides—six to eight cups depending on how big your pot is.  (I use the 8-quart pot shown here.)  Then slide in your cubed potatoes.  Bring to a boil, and them immediately reduce heat to a bare simmer.  Spend a few minutes skimming foam off the surface of the soup.  It's nasty and clouds up your broth.  Once this is done, let the soup simmer until potatoes are cooked though and flavors deepen, about 30 minutes.  Turn off heat.

Just before serving add a cup or two of milk or half-and-half.  Adjust salt and pepper.  Warm soup through and serve topped with fresh-snipped marjoram.