FamilyFood

Thanksgiving week culinary highlights

It goes without saying that Thanksgiving is all about great eats, and this one was no exception.  My mom, sister, and brother and his family came into town last week along with my mom's best friend and her husband. Their son and his family live close to San Francisco, so we had a big, extended family and friends Thanksgiving.

Crab Dinner

On Tuesday before Thanksgiving, we had dinner at Scoma's, a kitschy, touristy, wall-to-wall carpeted, "old San Francisco" kind of restaurant. My brother, who had never been there, was worried that it would be a tourist trap, which it is, but when it comes to fish and crab, I think Scoma's rivals any fancy restaurant.  The preparations were simple and unfettered, which is how I like my fish anyway. If you've never been, ask the waiter what the fresh fish of the day is and she or he will show you a list at least 10-12  items long.  We were there to celebrate the start of dungeness crab season and my mom picked the menu of garlic roasted crab, green salad, and martinis. Sixteen of us shared a private room where all the kids could get up and "stretch their legs." They all sat back down when it was time for the rich, chewy chocolate gelato (heavenly!).  It was the perfect way to kick off the week.

Chinese Banquet

On the Wednesday, my mom's friend invited us to a Chinese banquet at one of my favorite restaurants, Great Eastern. They are known for their impeccably fresh seafood.  Our eight course meal consisted of:

1. a cold platter of thinly sliced drunken beef, cold chicken, char siu (roast pork), fish cake, and jellyfish
2. taro soup (a rich, clear broth flavored with taro, carrots, and meat)
3. salt and pepper crab with chilis and green onions
4. sauteed water spinach
5. steamed chicken and black mushrooms with ginger
6. fried pork hash with hamni (salt fish)
7. chili beef
8. clams with sweet and sour Chinese pickles

It was BYOB so we had Prosecco and wine to go with. There was so much food leftover that my refrigerator was packed.

Thanksgiving Day

On Thanksgiving day, we started the morning at J.'s family's house where we had an early, homemade Thanksgiving meal. Then later, we all went out to dinner at the Fairmont Hotel which has become a recent tradition for my family since our Thanksgiving celebrations seem to be getting bigger and bigger. We all love it because we can stuff ourselves with caviar and blinis, oysters on the half shell, sashimi, foie gras, and fancy cheeses.  We always joke that they hate to see us coming because they lose money on us.  We had a lovely table next to the window overlooking the bay. We could see Alcatraz and both bridges and our dinner was timed with sunset so we got to enjoy that, too.

As far as buffets go, we all agreed that overall it was really good.  I didn't have turkey, but I did try the lamb which was cooked perfectly, and the Beef Wellington which was nice and pink on the inside. The gratin dauphinois consisted of thinly shaved potatoes and was light as a feather.  The cheeses were all local and included the likes of Humboldt Fog and Point Reyes blue, and the paté and salumi platter was divine.  Special touches included a Cobb salad station where a server tossed salads to order, a chocolate fondue fountain, and a kids' buffet table which was lower to the ground and included things like mini-burgers, baked chicken legs, Jello and Rice Krispy treats. (My kids eschewed that in favor of lamb and tortellini al pesto...but they did eat Jello.)

Post-Thanksgiving Turkey Dinner

I knew that at some point over the weekend of Thanksgiving I wanted to cook a turkey dinner because we'd all miss "traditional" Thanksgiving fare in a relaxed atmosphere. The week before, I went to Whole Foods with the intention of ordering my holiday turkey but I was sidelined by the folks taking orders for their holiday meals.  "All organic," they said. "We use real cream and butter," they said. I thought about whether I really wanted to spend an entire day cooking, an activity I normally love, and decided to order the complete dinner.

It was delivered on Wednesday before Thanksgiving and included a cooked Diestel turkey, maple-herb butter to glaze the turkey, green beans with shallots and fresh herbs, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, dressing, turkey gravy, whole cranberry-citrus sauce, 12 La Brea bakery rolls, and a whole pumpkin pie.  They even included a roasting pan, a large plastic bag with which to wrap up the turkey carcass, re-heating instructions, and a recipe for turkey noodle soup. We all agreed (and we are an extremely hard to please bunch) that it was excellent and tasted homemade. The turkey was moist and juicy from brining, the gravy was made with drippings, the dressing tasted like my own recipe (buttery and with loads of fresh herbs), the mashed potatoes were like silk.  My only complaint was that there were no yams. The dinner was so good that I've already written my letter to Whole Foods telling them how much we enjoyed it. Dinner was on the table within an hour and a half, and the rest of the day was spent with family. As it should be.

Turkey Tetrazzini from Saveur

I know what you are thinking: "Yuck."

I know, I know. I remember Turkey Tetrazzini from college cafeteria days, too. It was never a popular choice which is why I was surprised to see a recipe for it in the November 2006 issue of Saveur. The recipe description says straight up, "this isn't the Turkey Tetrazzini as you know it." In fact, it's almost nothing like the original recipe with the exception of the turkey and the noodles.

What intrigued me about this recipe was that it called for one cup of ketchup, an obvious bastardization of Escoffier's original recipe. And, I admit, I am a sucker for a good bastardization of a recipe, especially one that has been handed down through the generations like this one has. I'm also a sucker for a trashy, retro casserole. Ain't nothing fancy about a recipe that calls for one cup of ketchup.

But, what I liked most about this recipe was that it made the turkey into something completely different and un-turkey-like. There were no "Thanksgiving flavors" in this recipe, and after three days of eating turkey, that's a good thing.

This recipe would be great made with leftover turkey that has been frozen and defrosted, perhaps as a part of a casual family meal around the holidays. If you're sick of turkey, freeze three cups of it and make this casserole at a later date.

The recipe says it serves eight, but my family of four hearty eaters only made it through about 1/4 of a 9' x 12' pan. I think it can easily serve 10-12, especially if you serve other things alongside.  We had a green salad and leftover Thanksgiving green beans with this.

Try it.  I think you'll be pleasantly surprised...if you keep your expectations low.

TURKEY TETRAZZINI

Notes: I omitted the bell pepper, canned mushrooms, and pimentos and it still was delicious.

2 tbsp. butter
7 cups chicken broth
1 green bell pepper
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper (I didn't add any additional salt as the broth, ketchup, and turkey were salty enough)
1 lb. dried spaghetti
1 lb. skinless, boneless roasted turkey, torn into large chunks (about 3 cups)
2 cups frozen peas, thawed (I added them frozen)
1 cup ketchup
1 7-oz. can mushrooms, drained
1/4 cup finely chopped drained pimentos
3 cups (about 1/2 pound) grated cheddar cheese (I used a mixture of grated mozzarella and grated sharp cheddar.)

Preheat oven to 350º.

Butter and 11" x 13" casserole dish with 1 tbsp. of the butter.

Combine broth, peppers, onions, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste in a large pot and bring to a boil. Add spaghetti broken in pieces, reduce heat to medium, and boil gently, stirring often until spaghetti is al dente, about 12-14 minutes. (Or two minutes less than directions on box indicate.) Remove from heat, add remaining butter, turkey, peas, ketchup, mushrooms, pimentos, and salt and pepper to taste and fold together. Transfer spaghetti mixture to buttered dish and cover with grated cheese. Bake until golden and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Set casserole aside to let cool slightly, then serve.

[Mosaic created with fd's flickr toys using Stefania Pomponi Butler's photos]

Turkey sandwich perfection

My idea of turkey sandwich perfection is as follows.

Lightly toast two pieces of whole grain bread then slather it with mayo. (I said, "Slather.") Grind pepper onto the mayo. Then, between the mayonnaise-y, peppery bread goes: sliced turkey, some green bell pepper rings (don't knock it 'til you try it), and crisp iceberg (it has to be iceberg) lettuce. Deeelicious.

The only other way to go for a turkey sandwich is to make it with with turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and a little gravy to bind it. Smash down. Eat.

Things that should never be on a turkey sandwich according to me:

• Mustard (I love it, just not on turkey.)
• Cheese (I am just not ever a fan of cheese on a sandwich.* On plain bread, okay, with other stuff, no.)
• Alfalfa sprouts (They serve no purpose except to make otherwise good food taste like dirt.)

*Maybe it's the cheese + meat combo that I don't like, because I do enjoy a good grilled cheese and tomato (or tart apple), and a sharp cheddar/chutney tea sandwich.

[Photo of "the perfect turkey sandwich": Stefania Pomponi Butler]

Thanksgiving Memories: Setting the table

When I was a child, setting the table for Thanksgiving dinner was my job. I polished the silver, ironed the napkins, and washed and dried the crystal glasses. I was like a 10-year-old Martha Stewart, I was so meticulous.

With my mom's guidance, I would set the table the night before Thanksgiving so it was all done and looking beautifully inviting by the time our guests arrived. 

First I would Pledge the whole table until its lemony scent permeated the entire house. Then the big, white table cloth went on. It was made in Italy especially to accomodate the dimensions of our large, round table.

Then the plates would be laid out. Most often we used the Italian china that my mom received when she married my dad, the china that I use today. I love this china because it comes with pasta plates and several different antipasti dishes—pieces that are a normal part of an Italian china service, but are usually not included in fine china available in the States.  I'd use the plates as my guide to determine where the sterling silverware would go.

Folded napkins would go to the left of the plate and on top of that a shiny fork. To the right of the plate went a heavy silver knife and soup spoon. We always set our dessert fork and coffee spoon on the table above the plate, with forks pointing one way and spoons pointing the other.

Crystal wine and water glasses would go above the knife and spoon to the right of the plate. Then, all the serving dishes and utensils would go on top of the table waiting to be filled with deliciousness.

I loved sitting around that big round table as a child.  It was reserved for special occassions. Holidays meant that not only could we sit with adults, but we also got our own very tiny glasses of champagne.

I have vivid memories of setting holiday tables as a child.  If I close my eyes, I can almost see my little self arranging chairs just so and making sure forks were straight. I took so much pride in what I was doing because I was entrusted with such an important job.

I am thankful for a mother who taught me these things, even though most nights our dining table looks like a cafeteria food fight post-mortem. My eldest daughter is four-years-old and she's just now starting to want to set the table. I'm showing her where forks go, and where knives and, like our dining room table, the circle goes round.

[photo of my silver gravy boat: Stefania Pomponi Butler]

Butternut Squash and Apple Soup with Curry and Sage

This easy-to-make, spiced-but-not-spicy soup would be a tasty starter to a Thanksgiving dinner. Best of all you can make it ahead of time (2 days ahead) and refrigerate it. Just heat and serve.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND APPLE SOUP WITH CURRY AND SAGE

This is an ovo-lacto vegetarian recipe and could very easily be made vegan by substituting margarine or olive oil for the butter, and omitting the dairy.

Tip: The beans add silkiness and body to the soup without having to add cream.

• 1 stick (1/2 cup) of best-quality unsalted butter
• 3 16 oz. packages of raw, cut-up butternut squash (from Trader Joe's)
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 apples (tart, sweet or a combo), peeled, cored, and chopped
• 1-2 sprigs of fresh sage (6-8 leaves)
• 2 tbsps. Madras curry powder
• 2 boxes (8 cups) Imagine "No Chicken" broth or regular chicken broth
• 1/2 can of cannelini (white) beans
• 1 cup of milk or half-and-half (optional, add if you want extra richness)
• salt and pepper to taste

In a large soup pot, melt butter over medium heat and add squash, onion, apple, sage, and curry powder.  Cook for about 5-10 minutes, stirring often and being careful not to scorch the bottom. Remove all but one sage leaf. Add broth and beans and bring to a simmer.

Cover, lower heat, and simmer for 30-40 minutes stirring occassionally. Turn off heat and stick-blend (or process) until velvety smooth. Add milk or half-and-half if desired, stir and warm through. Check seasonings. Serve at once. Makes about a gallon of soup so freeze some!

[photo: Stefania Pomponi Butler]

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!

Did you get yours?

I love that the arrival of this fun, fruity wine kicks off the holiday season here in the United States.  I know that many people serve this wine with Thanksgiving dinner, but I like a nice Alsatian Riesling or Oregon Pinot Gris myself. Both are versatile whites that complement the turkey and trimmings quite nicely.

I like to do lots of nosh and nibbles throughout the day (cheeses, paté, chips and dip, crudité), before the dinner, and Beaujolais Nouveau is fun to serve with that.

Before we had kids, my husband and I would go to our neighborhood French bistro for Beaujolais Nouveau night on the third Thursday in November. I have fond memories of sitting at a table by the window with the windows steamed up from all the revelry inside, sipping wine, and talking excitedly about the upcoming holidays.

For me, Beaujolais Nouveau is happiness in a bottle, and will always be.

Easy Sides: Roasted brussels sprouts

I've been seeing brussels sprouts all over the food blogs this week.  'Tis the season!  They are so delicious, why not?

I love them every which way. I like them steamed. I love taking all the leaves off, sauteeing them and making a warm salad with sherry vinaigrette and pancetta. But I love them roasted best of all. Sometimes, when you steam the sprouts, your house gets all stinky. You know that smell.  That doesn't happen when you roast them.

The technique is essentially the same for every roasted brussels sprouts recipe. Blast with heat, season and serve.

ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS

For extra yumminess you can saute some pancetta with minced shallots or onions, and toss that mixture with the brussels sprouts at the 10 minute mark. Really, really excellent balsamic vinegar makes all the difference in this recipe.

Try to choose sprouts that are all the same size so they cook evenly.

Preheat oven to 400º.

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds of brussels sprouts, washed, outer leaves removed
• extra virgin olive oil
• salt and pepper
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• best-quality balsamic vinegar

Carefully cut a thin slice off the bottom of the sprouts, cutting off the woody, dried-out part of the stem. Cut the sprouts in half.

Place in a roasting pan and toss with olive oil, salt, pepper, and garlic. Roast in oven for 10 minutes, then mix with wooden spoon, splash in some balsamic vinegar (about a tablespoon), and return to oven for 10-12 minutes more. Cook for 20-22 minutes total.

Remove from oven, finish by sprinkling on a touch more vinegar (about a teaspoon). Mix gently. Transfer to serving bowl. These are great hot or at room temperature.

[photo credit: Stefania Pomponi Butler]

Easy sides: Sauteed green beans with persimmon and hazelnuts

Pancetta-lovers take note:  If you are looking for my green beans with pancetta recipe, it is loosely based on this one so go 'head and read through it. I explain it all at the end of the post. 

Sauteed green beans are one of my favorite things to make for Thanksgiving dinner, but this side dish has an unusual twist: persimmons. I love the color contrast between the bright green beans and the deep orange persimmon.

SAUTEED GREEN BEANS WITH PERSIMMONS AND HAZELNUTS

Prepare and ice water bath (lots of very cold water with ice) in a large bowl while the beans are cooking.

Inspired by a Gourmet magazine recipe from November 1994. (I still have it.)

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds of green beans (blue lake or "haricots verts" variety), washed, trimmed, and cut into 2-inch diagonal pieces
• 2 shallots, finely chopped
• 2 Fuyu persimmons, ends trimmed, halved, and sliced  thinly
• olive oil (or browned butter if you want a richer dish)
• salt and pepper
• a handful of toasted hazelnuts (or walnuts), slightly smashed, reserve some for garnish

Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add green beans and cook for about 3 minutes, until very al dente. Immediately drain and plunge beans into an ice water bath to stop cooking. When cool, drain beans and pat dry.

Meanwhile, in a large saute pan, saute shallots in olive oil over medium heat until they turn golden and transluscent. Add the persimmons and continue cooking until persimmons are softened but not falling apart. Taste for salt. Add green beans, stiring lightly, and cook until beans are warmed through, about 5-7 minutes. Add most of the hazelnuts and toss.  Cook about a minute more. Adjust seasonings.  Transfer to serving dish, top with a sprinkling of hazelnuts. Serve at once. Serves 8.

PANCETTA NOTES: If you are making this with pancetta, simply omit the persimmon and replace with about 4 ounces of diced pancetta.  Saute the pancetta with the shallots until the shallots are translucent and just starting to carmelize.  Then toss with the cooked green beans.

 

[photo credit for beautiful photo of persimmon: In Praise of Sardines]

Thanksgiving Memories: Oysters

Thanksgiving in my family, for as long as I can remember, has meant oysters. Our meal always starts with Oyster Stew which my mom makes at the very last second while everyone is getting seated. Every year, no matter where we are, we request Oyster Stew (or Bisque as my mom calls it) and, no matter where we are, she tracks down the ingredients and prepares it.

She follows a very simple recipe of oysters and their liquor, butter, light cream, salt, pepper, and a sprinkling of fresh parsley. (The photo is similar but we don't top ours with oyster crackers.) Once the stew is devoured, the soup bowls are cleared and then it's on with the rest of the meal.

In recent years, I've been making a Southern-style Oyster Pie as well. It's one of the side dishes included in our Thanksgiving meal. I follow Martha Stewart's recipe because it is sheer perfection in a pie dish.  It's deliciously rich and one 9-inch pie can easily serve 12 people.

I don't what it is about Thanksgiving and oysters, but for me, they go hand-in-hand. From stew to pie, oysters are my favorite part of our meal. That and the champagne to go with, of course!

I'll be blogging my memories (recipes included, of course!) for the next week.  I'd love it if you'd share yours!